Page scanned from a 300 year old book



Vedhshala founder outside the observatory with his son playing in the background.



Reconstruction of one of the two library areas is already underway.

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Shrine to the late founder of Vedhshala


A mourning period indicating the imminent end of our trip has officially commenced.  Not only am I not ready to leave the people and this excitement of travel, I am not ready to embrace ‘life as normal’ upon my return. Being here has allowed optimism to take seed; Suraj and I have been living in the realm of possibility.  Unhindered by the requirements of the daily grind, pipe dreams feel tangible, less wispy than the smoky haze they’re born of.  T...
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The mountains rise up purple-blue, as the sun casts a lavender glow over the landscape.  Smoky, muted colors reflect a reprieve from the glaring heat - an exhausted but welcome haze – even the sun has gotten lazy, worn out from the day’s work.  I can hear the sounds of a people awakening from afternoon naps, eager to get back to the business of domesticity.

Despite the chill morning air, by noon the temperature is relentless.  Between sunrise and midday, it doubles until reaching its peak...
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I am now back in the company of Suraj’s family, turning down offers for second and third helpings of daal, roti, subzi, and all matter of delectable Indian sweets. It feels good to hand my daily needs back over to the care of others, but I miss the independence of being in Delhi.

I loved wandering through its neighborhoods and savoring one of the most precious and difficult to come by American commodities – time.  Here, I have little else but time, which I can choose to fill by practicing...
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 Hello all, my apologies for being so long in between posts, and then posting only photos with no substance a few days ago (which was a mistake). I've been having a very hard time with the internet connection in my hotel, and thus am way behind.  For now, I'll just post some quick highlights, and hopefully I can do more thorough writing in the near future.  I have much to say about traveling as a woman, further insights into the changes happening here, etc. But for now, I leave you with this:...
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Yesterday saw my first bout of travel-related gastro-intestinal malfunction, and it was not fun.  I spent the majority of the day laying in bed, counting the minutes until the body aches, waves of nausea, and trips to the bathroom would run their course.  Today is much better, although I am still not quite back to my usual self.  Sadly, this is not the 'unfortunate event' that this entry's title refers to, but illness did delay me from writing about it sooner:

I expected to be assailed by extr...
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So far, my favorite activity is just exploring the streets and taking the energy of each place I find myself. 


 
I loved the color of these houses


Makeshift parking lot 
 


Exit at Delhi train station


 
Delhi train station 



Entrance to the main corridor in Pahar Ganj, the area where most backpackers stay.  It's horrible - I'm so glad that I'm not there!

 

Construction area near Connaught Place in central Delhi. 


Items for sale outside of Hindu temples in Chattarpur area

 

Contrasting colors in a Hindu temp...
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India is a country of 364 political parties and over 330,000,000 gods; it's the birthplace of Hinduism, Buddhism, hosts a sizable Jain and Sikh population, and is also home to thousands of Christians.  India, more so than any place I've visited, is the embodiment of 'maximalism', a veritable feast of colors, smells, flavors, sounds, cultures and peoples. Given this context, it's no surprise that the capitol city of Delhi comprises a variety of uniquely distinct neighborhoods and regions.  

(A ...
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Indians are a very communally-oriented people (yes, this is not earth-shattering news). This is immediately visible in the prevelance of extended families, the terms of reverence and specific names for each person which imply varying levels of respect, and, as I wrote about recently, their ingratiating hospitality.  Another fine example that I was not anticipating, is the desire for one to not be alone. All meals at Sanskriti are served in the dining area, and so, although I speak almost none...
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In the spirit of seizing the day, I am attempting to shoot a lot of portraits.  I have long wondered how to ethically do this; especially when my subjects are strangers. As much as possible, I am cognizant of the power dynamics at play, in the hopes that my process and product will not be exploitive or voyeuristic. 


 

A kitchenware shop shimmering in the Devprayag night
  
 
 
The ubiquitous white-person mannequins  
 

A fine samosa maker, happy to have his photo taken!



On the Kumar's rooftop in Delhi...
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Every moment here, my brain is filled with a cacophony of musings and observations - it's been far too long since my last post. Although it feels egocentric to think that people would want to read this frequently, I am resolved to blog several times a week, at least while in Delhi. Writing is, in some ways, the best way for me to document, process, and remember this trip. 

Suraj and I have parted ways for a few weeks. As he continues to visit with family and friends, I am in my studio spac...
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Week one - this week was probably the best possible scenario for the start of our trip. I was a bit exhausted after our flight here - although the accommodations of our flight were unrivaled in my personal experience, I sat next to an absolutely adorable but extraordinarily cranky toddler who refused to let me sleep.  Every time I dozed off, he had the uncanny ability to start screaming!  This restless flight was followed by a layover in Dubai (the airport is less of an airport and more of a ...
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This is the first entry of a blog that I've toyed with writing time and again.  At various times over the years, I've referred to myself as "The Intrepid Traveler", during various inner monologues, though usually it's laced with a hint of irony.  I consider myself to be many things, but intrepid is rarely at the top of the list (happenstance or coincidental might be more accurate). 

The impetus pushing me to do it at this time is based in necessity; I'm departing for a two month trip to India ...
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