India is a country of 364 political parties and over 330,000,000 gods; it's the birthplace of Hinduism, Buddhism, hosts a sizable Jain and Sikh population, and is also home to thousands of Christians.  India, more so than any place I've visited, is the embodiment of 'maximalism', a veritable feast of colors, smells, flavors, sounds, cultures and peoples. Given this context, it's no surprise that the capitol city of Delhi comprises a variety of uniquely distinct neighborhoods and regions.  

(A few caveats for the sake of accuracy: almost all of the 364 political parties are smaller regional ones, that have some clout in national elections, but are not on the national ticket.  As for the number of gods, Hinduism is famous for its variety of deities, but what is less understood is that they are all manifestations of Brahman, the formless, gender-neutral all-encompassing energy that connects all living and non-living things, in all universes.  As one blogger put it, imagine that this energy is water, and all Hindu deities are different vessels to hold the water - it's still water, even though its shape changes. Keep in mind that this explanation is a simplified version of a very complex, nuanced, and diverse religious belief system.  Each family has an individual form of practice that influences things like diet, gods that are more venerated, etc., and is determined by caste, class, geographic region, etc.)
 
The area that Delhi now covers is actually eight different cities that have been built at various times over the course of history. Like any city undergoing intense transition, Delhi hosts people and places that are diversely located along the spectrum spanning from antiquity to modernity, even within each religious sect or small community. Each time I venture out, I see a different neighborhood, with its own character, rhythm, and sense of identity. Case in point: On Monday, I visited Hauz Khas Village, which, as a friend put it, is 'hipster' Delhi, full of tiny little shops, cafes, and art galleries; the architecture feels very southern European, with narrow, winding alleys to get lost in, circular staircases leading to businesses on the second and third stories, and pastel colors everywhere.  It's quiet, relaxing, and overlooks a large park which houses ruins dating to the 14th century (yes, you can climb on them!), a large lake, and acres of lawns, trees, flowers and shrubs, where Delhi's young couples go to have some much sought-after alone time.

 

 
 
After getting my fill, I was in Connaught Place, billed as the one of the most posh parts of city, in a mere 20 minutes (thanks to an auto rickshaw and the Delhi Metro).  I was greeted by stark white Greco-Roman inspired palladians, with stores like Fab India and Top Shop that sell clothing 3-4 times more expensive than what I've purchased at outdoor clothing markets.  As I ventured out, I discovered that a mere block and a half away, there was intense construction, severely potholed streets, businesses being torn down and rebuilt...development, in essence.

I had a fabulous time walking through this area, observing the abounding juxtapositions of glass sky-scrapers, people chasing down busses and hopping on Indiana-Jones style, cows and dogs meandering around, mopeds, cars, auto-rickshaws, the gauntlet of makeshift markets selling American knock-offs, business women dressed in modern adaptations of traditional clothing, everything!  It was truly a wonderful afternoon, and instead of photographing, I just walked for hours, observing, soaking in the setting sun and its beautiful light, and enjoying the chaos of humanity bursting at the seams. Other areas I have visited have a distinctly Muslim/middle eastern feel (Chadni Chowk), are quintessentially what comes to mind (Old Delhi), or are developments surrounding HUGE modern temple complexes (Chattarpur).  


 
 
Women in the city wear a wide variety of clothing, depending on where you are, yet another reflection of the transition from Old India to New India.  Some look like they're straight off the campus of an American university or the streets of New York, while others have on jeans with a kurta, or more traditionally, saris and occasionally burkas. During my last trip to India, I purchased a few conservative and fairly traditional items, with loose pants and modest sleeves.  These serve me well while I'm with Suraj's family, where things are generally more provincial (in terms of what's appropriate as well as the setting).  However, in Delhi, I often feel completely unfashionable because this clothing is outdated, and so have been attempting to update my wardrobe and look slightly more modern.

As I continue to navigate this culture and what is appropriate and when, I sometimes still completely misread a situation. Yesterday, I met with a small NGO in a nearby 'village'.  Wrongfully of the mindset that I was still in the Delhi area, I wore a new, super cute, sleeveless top and loose yoga pants, in my attempt to look a bit chic and abate the increasingly hot weather.  BLLLEEEEEEEP - not OK!  I soon realized this was a more conservative area, and I was the only person whose shoulders/upper arms were exposed (and the only person with white skin - all the more attention!).  In our shared cab, two women across from me had on Coach sunglasses, but they still had on jeans and loose but fashionable long-sleeved shirts.  The woman next to me had on tight leggings and a modern shirt, but covered her head with a burka and sunglasses - an interesting way to blend tradition with the contemporary. Needless to say, I have to buy  scarf to keep with me for such occasions.